February 28, 2025, 2:56 pm | Read time: 10 minutes
In Bedugul, our author experienced the most relaxed days on his trip to Bali. And perhaps also the most “real.” In contrast to many a chic beach town, the place was simply honest and unadorned, embedded in the wildest and most beautiful island nature. Why less is often more, especially when traveling, and why a visit to Bali’s green heart is particularly worthwhile in the low season.
It’s evening, and I’m sitting on a chair on the terrace in front of my little hut, which is high up in the incredibly green hills above the Balinese village of Bedugul. Countless insects are giving a polyphonic concert, and the muezzin is calling to prayer from the valley in the village, which is also influenced by Islam. His voice wafts through the wide valley below me like mystical sounds from another world. In the distance, the cones of some mountains can be seen in the haze, and Lake Beratan shimmers in the slowly gathering dusk. There is no one at my resort apart from my girlfriend and a few lovely employees. I take a deep breath of fresh air and think: “I’ve finally arrived in the real Bali.”
Bedugul was one of those lucky breaks for us that seem to happen again and again, especially when traveling. In truth, however, I think it’s also down to the fact that your eyes and heart are particularly open when you’re traveling. One afternoon, in front of a supermarket in Canggu, our first stop in Bali, I came across a cute dog. While I was scratching him extensively, I struck up a conversation with his owner, a local — hitting the jackpot. After all, who would know a place better than the people who live there? And so at some point, quite quickly actually, the name Bedugul came up when I asked about places worth seeing.
One of the Holiest Places in Bali
The drive there was an adventure in itself because, for the first time, we were leaving supposed civilization behind us and immersing ourselves in the “real” Bali. As soon as you have put some distance between you and the capital city cluster around Denpasar, the island completely changes its face. The traffic, which was previously roaring and seething everywhere, slowly ebbs away noticeably, and the roads become even narrower, if at all possible. Small villages, nestled in the greenest postcard jungle, fly by. Again and again, you are amazed by sublime temples of all sizes, some of them densely overgrown by the moss and vegetation of years and centuries. You know that Bedugul lies somewhere at the end of this route, which is less than 50 kilometers from Canggu. However, suddenly, you’re in no hurry to get there.
So why not make a stop in the small village of Mengwi? The Pura Taman Ayun temple is one of the most impressive ancient complexes. It is considered one of the most sacred places on the island. At the show coffee plantation, “The Garden,” just around the corner, you can taste the brew in various delicious versions. Don’t miss out on buying exotic, delicious fruit along the way, which we only ever get to see here, if at all, in Asian markets at absolute fantasy prices. Snake fruit, rambutan, mangosteen — the shapes and colors of the fruit alone are sometimes adventurous and delight the eye and heart. If you dare, you can also eat delicious street food like a real Indonesian. This is offered everywhere on small carts at incredibly low prices. My recommendation is bakso, a hearty soup with rice, tofu, and meatballs.
Street Food and Temples
Our driver, Adi, whom we had only met the day before, willingly stopped for us at every other supposed sight on the way to Bedugul. We had hired his services for the whole day for the sum of a good 40 euros. And he was not only an excellent chauffeur but also a very entertaining conversation partner and seemingly inexhaustible source of local knowledge. He had worked out a route for us in his head beforehand, on which we were guaranteed to see the most along the way. And so we eventually arrived at one of the most important sights in Bali, laden with fruit and a belly full of delicious bakso. The Ulun Danu Beratan temple in Bedugul.
There was a festival atmosphere in the huge parking lot in front of it. Countless people bustled around excitedly despite the light rain. A visit to a Balinese temple is unlikely to be the sublime experience you might imagine. Due to the incredible beauty of the complexes, they suffer from a veritable onslaught of visitors from all over the world all year round. This was also the case in Bedugul, which was otherwise still in the depths of the low season when we visited in January. However, the temple located in the waters of Lake Beratan is a must-see. Nestled in beautiful grounds with lots of colorful flowers, it looks as if a very imaginative child had simply dreamed it up.
The Largest Botanical Garden in Indonesia
When visiting Ulun Danu Beratan, as with any other Balinese temple, please make sure you dress appropriately. Shoulders and knees should always be covered. It is sometimes downright shameful to see how young people, in particular, deliberately disregard these respectable rules for the sake of a spectacular photo. Another rule may seem archaic and perhaps even outdated to us Europeans, but it is, of course, still to be followed. For example, menstruating women are considered unclean in the Hindu faith. Therefore, they are excluded from visiting any temple complex in Bali. Of course, no one will check your personal circumstances. This makes it all the more important that you respect the customs.
If, on the other hand, you are looking for solitude in the most beautiful natural surroundings, Bedugul is also the right place for you. For example, in the city’s incredibly extensive botanical garden, the Kebun Raya. This is the largest garden of its kind in the whole of Indonesia. It is home to a variety of flowers, flowering plants, cacti, and trees on an area of 150 hectares. You can hire bicycles, scooters, or even golf carts at the entrance to get around more quickly. Otherwise, it will be difficult to see all the beauty here in one day or even afternoon. Shuttle buses also run regularly, all for an extra charge on top of the entrance fee, of course. At 20,000 Indonesian rupiah (1.20-1.80 euros), or 30,000 at weekends, this is very affordable.
Audience with a King
A tour on foot is also feasible, I can say from experience. However, this may well turn into a four-hour, quite strenuous walk. As soon as you enter the Bedugul Botanical Gardens, an unimaginable background noise sets in, produced by millions and millions of insects hidden in the vegetation. At first, my girlfriend thought an alarm had been switched on somewhere. Right at the entrance, visitors are greeted by imposing, larger-than-life figures from Balinese mythology. Very imaginative and perhaps rather scary, at least for young visitors. It’s a strange feeling to walk along a paved road in such a natural oasis, surrounded by giant trees up to 30 meters high. But the majesty of the trees, in particular, quickly makes you forget that.
Unfortunately, there is still very little in bloom when we visit in January. However, this doesn’t detract from the mood of discovery. The absolute highlight is, therefore, not the themed gardens. Instead, it is a truly gigantic fig tree that rises up somewhere in the middle of a dense jungle. The majesty of this giant is difficult to put into words. In any case, there is a palpable energy emanating from this giant, which is perhaps several hundred years old. We are lucky enough to enjoy an audience with this king all to ourselves for about half an hour. And we can’t stop being amazed and taking photos.
Eating in the Greenhouse
You will soon realize that Bedugul is not yet as well developed for tourism as other towns by the sea. The city, as such, appears rather unadorned to the eye, which has previously been overstimulated by offers. Only those who really want to explore with an open mind should take a longer stroll here. The many nurseries with their exotic plants and the local market Pasar Candi Kuning just outside are particularly worth seeing. Here, you can buy unique fruit and vegetables. Due to its location at over 1000 meters and the volcanic soil here, Bedugul is something like the fruit garden of the entire country. There are plantations and greenhouses everywhere. If you want, you can pick your own strawberries in January on one of the many farms.
When it comes to culinary delights, I have a tip for you that I can wholeheartedly recommend. The absolutely crazy restaurant “Rumah Gemuk Bali” is located in an old greenhouse. There is a wonderful little jungle in the basement. Upstairs, you can dine with a sensational view of Lake Beratan. The place is perhaps THE Instagram hotspot around Bedugul. Nevertheless, we got a table without any problems. The food is a mix of Indonesian and European cuisine, and the prices are very moderate despite the truly unique location. Luckily, my girlfriend had discovered this place on social media beforehand. Personally, I’ve always avoided places like this that are hyped online. But without her, I would probably never have found this restaurant experience.
TRAVELBOOK Author on Site Is a Visit to Bali’s Trendy Resort of Canggu Worthwhile?
Tanah Lot in Bali Why This Temple Is Guarded by Sea Serpents
Spiritual Capital of the Island Why Ubud Was the Berlin of Bali for Me
Magically Beautiful Waterfalls
We owe another place to our friendly driver, Bihi, whom we met rather by chance in Bedugul. A Muslim, father of four, and an extremely hospitable guide and taxi driver. This is the restaurant “Warung Rekreasi.” The term ‘warung’ roughly translates to ‘street stall’ and signifies a humble, often family-run eatery in Bali offering delicious meals at very reasonable prices. This was also the case here, and the location is absolutely magical in an extensive private jungle. In terms of food, I would definitely prefer the “Rumah Gemuk Bali,” but it is still a very nice oasis of peace. Also worth a visit is the sensational “Kupi Coffee” overlooking Lake Beratan. Here, the coffee is robust, and the experience is enhanced by the delightful symphony of birdsong.
If you want to explore the area around Bedugul, we recommend visiting the numerous waterfalls. A local driver like our Bihi will take you there quickly and easily if you don’t want to hire a car or even a scooter yourself. We went to the less touristy location of Banyumana (not to be confused with the completely overcrowded Banyumala). There, we were able to marvel at four different cascades. A narrow path, which was easy to walk on even in the rain, led us further and further downhill through the dense jungle. Until we finally felt like we were in a magical fairytale land. The waterfalls plunge into a basin, creating a natural concert orchestrated by the elements. Here, perhaps for the first time, you understand the true and deeper meaning of the word “primeval forest.”
As it was raining heavily during our visit, we had the waterfalls all to ourselves. Until the batteries of our cell phones were depleted, and we were drenched to the core yet filled with joy. After a hot shower in our beautiful accommodation, “Catu Glamping Bedugul,” we returned to the terrace in front of our hut to listen to the incredibly fascinating soundscape from the valley, as we do every evening. Music rang out from a nearby temple, and at some point, the muezzin called again, interspersed with the concert of insects. The days in Bedugul had given us something very valuable. Specifically, a rediscovery of ourselves in a locale that, at first glance, doesn’t appear to cater to tourists as other spots in Bali do. And yet, there are so many beautiful things to discover here.