February 7, 2025, 8:47 am | Read time: 9 minutes
Hardly any other city in Andalusia exudes as much charm and majesty as Granada. Once the seat of Moorish kings and Spanish grandees, the Alhambra is the most visited monument in the whole of Spain. But the magic of Granada also lies in its winding alleyways and squares. TRAVELBOOK author Robin Hartmann takes you to this magnificent place for two days.
There are not many places left in the world where the past is still so present that it shapes the present and even the future. Granada in Spain’s popular vacation region of Andalusia is one such city. Full of magic that can be found everywhere in the small alleyways and lively plazas. A centuries-old open-air museum whose history is breathed by everyone who enters its spell. Filled with life and the noise of countless people, Granada is like an open storybook that you just have to stumble into.
And it is by no means just the Alhambra that makes Granada one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Of course, according to the city’s official website, the old Moorish fortress is the most visited monument in Spain, with several million tourists a year wanting to see it. But if you came just to see this, you would miss out on a whole city full of charm and history. To be honest, I originally only wanted to spend an afternoon in Granada. In the end, I ended up spending two whole days there, and I would have liked to add at least two more.
Overview
The Oldest Part of Granada
One thing is for sure when visiting Granada: The Alhambra will be very busy every day, and it will still be standing a day later. I therefore recommend starting your visit to the city in its oldest part, the Arab quarter of Albaicín. Like the Alhambra itself, which was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1984, there is no better place to feel the pulse of the city than here. Early in the morning, traders open their brightly colored stores in some of the historic buildings to intercept a few tourists on their way up through the district.
Just like the Alhambra, the Albaicín is located on one of the city’s hills, and many winding, narrow alleyways lead up to it. If you walk off the main route, which starts at Plaza Nueva, you may be lucky enough to have the wonderful little streets all to yourself—even if only for a few minutes. The stone paving of the centuries-old paths sometimes looks as if it has just been washed up by the sea, so there is only one pace: slow and relaxed.
Unique Views
Things get hectic enough at the most popular point in the Albaicín, the Mirador de San Nicolás viewpoint. You will inevitably have to share it with other people, because from here you have an incomparable view of the entire Alhambra and the countryside beyond. The view of the peaks of the Sierra Nevada behind Granada, which are still covered in snow in spring, is particularly spectacular. Mulhacén, the highest mountain on the entire Iberian Peninsula, can also be found here.
Countless street vendors and musicians from all over the world make the Mirador de San Nicolás a very pleasant place despite the permanent overcrowding, where you can get a good view and/or a photo opportunity without having to jostle. However, attentive visitors will probably sooner or later notice a spot from which you have an even better view than from the Mirador. And it is also virtually undisturbed. If this privilege is worth 2.50 euros, you will definitely be rewarded with incomparable panoramas, especially at sunset. The exact location will not be revealed here, but if you search, you will find it very easily.
Tapas and Cave Houses
From the viewpoint, you can let yourself be carried away by the flair of the city through further narrow streets and across squares, where the numerous small restaurants and bars are already packed at lunchtime. You can enjoy a well-deserved break in the “Casa Miguel”, for example. Small, loud, and Spanish through and through, father and son have been serving food and a beer to the entire neighborhood here since the late 1960s. What makes it special: With every drink here, you also get a generous tapa, or something to eat, for free. I was full after two non-alcoholic beers without having to order anything extra.
You should also make a detour to the nearby Sacromonte district. Some of the people here live in houses carved into the rock of the surrounding hills, like caves. However, you won’t find any restaurants or tourist attractions here. Occasionally, however, some residents open their unique houses for guided tours. If the Albaicín is already winding, Sacromonte is a veritable labyrinth of romantic pathways. Incidentally, you can also get great views of the Alhambra from here, usually all to yourself.
The Most Beautiful Street in Granada
A tip for dinner afterward: Look for a restaurant that uses disposable paper tablecloths. These indicate a steady influx of visitors, which in turn means above-average quality food. The fish restaurant “El Ladrillo” is one such place, where you can also sit in a rustic atmosphere. If you still have room after one of the main courses, why not treat yourself to a slice of cheesecake?
When it’s time to get out of the Albaicín, follow the signs for “City Center”, and you’ll find yourself on one of the most beautiful streets I’ve ever seen. The narrow, cobbled Carrera del Darro runs romantically along the small river of the same name that runs through Granada. Beware, even if it is easy to daydream here: In addition to countless other visitors, you also share this magnificent street with cars and even small buses.
One Day for the Alhambra
The second day in Granada must then inevitably be dedicated to the Alhambra—the whole day. Don’t even try to cut corners or save money here. Even in just one day, you can’t really grasp all the magic of the old Moorish fortress. I was up there for eight hours, and even if it can certainly be done quicker, why should it? Take your precious time and give this monument the recognition it deserves.
My tip: Climb up to the Alhambra via the Cuesta de Gomérez road and enter the complex via the Puerta de la Justicia. This is the most sensible way to visit the Alhambra. Admission to the entire complex is free of charge. However, if you want to see the highlights, i.e., the Palacios Nazaríes and the incredibly beautiful garden Parque Generalife, you will have to pay. You can find more information on the official website.
A Place to Relax
Alhambra means “red fortress” and does not refer to a mosque, as many people mistakenly believe. Rather, it refers to the entire castle that the Moorish Nasrid dynasty had built during their reign over Granada from 1238. The best place to start a tour is the Alcazaba defensive complex, the oldest part of the Alhambra. From the numerous towers, you have an impressive view of the city and the Albaicín in particular. From the highest point, the Torre de la Vela, you can also see the mighty mountain peaks of the Sierra Nevada.
The Parque Generalife is located just outside the actual castle complex, and was once the retreat for the Sultan and his family. It is somewhat quieter here than in the rest of the Alhambra, and you can sometimes hear birdsong instead of a babble of voices. The grounds themselves are beautifully maintained, and even in spring, everything here is in full bloom in the brightest colors. A perfect place to relax for a moment, or even a little longer, and let the impressions sink in.
Highlight for Selfie Hunters
The palace complex, the Palacios Nazaríes, will challenge your brain in a way you’ve never experienced before. The Moorish stonework and wooden coffered ceilings on display there are so intricately crafted that it is hard to imagine they were created by human hands. The intricately designed ornaments appear too unreal and perfect, with each room seemingly surpassing the previous one.
The pinnacle of artistry is undoubtedly the impressive Lion Courtyard, where a marble fountain with figures of the eponymous predators really freaked out all the selfie hunters on my tour to a whole new level. It’s really hard to put into words the awe you feel throughout the palace complex. The construction time alone, which, according to one of the guides on site, took 90 years, certainly seems small in the face of so much majesty.
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Incidentally, I personally did not regret my decision to visit the Alhambra without a guide. I certainly didn’t get to experience as much on site this way, but I also had my own pace. Where groups often rushed past, I was able to linger. And as I mentioned at the beginning, eight hours at the Alhambra still seemed very short to me.
If you leave the complex via the entrance at the Cuesta del Rey Chico, you have the final opportunity for what is probably the most spectacular descent into the city. Over cobblestones, the path leads back down to the Carrera del Darro. A watercourse accompanies the path, lined with colorful flowers in bloom. Walking along the castle wall of the Alhambra, you finally reach the boulevard again, and two days are already over. The memory of this (first) visit to Granada will last a lifetime.