February 24, 2025, 4:37 pm | Read time: 9 minutes
Canggu was the first stop for our author on his recent three-week trip to the dream island of Bali. And he would have loved to flee again as soon as he arrived. Because the hip, noisy Beachtown, which was already bursting at the seams even in the low season, was not to his taste at first. In the end, he stayed for five days, found many beautiful things at second or third glance, and even fell a little in love with the vibe.
Ever arrived somewhere and instantly thought, ‘Oh God, where have I landed?’ Everything feels wrong somehow; you take offense at everything — as if the travel brochure of your dreams had inadvertently led you to the wrong destination. To be honest, that’s how I initially felt when I arrived on the dream island of Bali with my girlfriend after more than a whole day’s journey. More precisely, in the beach town of Canggu (pronounced Tschangu). It was dark and loud; the streets were completely clogged with traffic and people partying. And there was only one thought in my mind: immediate escape. Somewhere where it really looks like the Bali you see in the media. In the end, I’m very glad I didn’t act on this impulse. Because although all the signs were against it, I fell a little in love with Canggu.
But how did we even come to choose this place that, at first glance, seemed like my worst nightmare come to life? The answer: videos on YouTube. In them, Canggu was described by young, good-looking people as the place to be and the ideal starting point for a trip to Bali. It’s the kind of advertising I usually dismiss. But my girlfriend, who is six years younger than me, does her research for her trips in this way. And indeed, what we saw and heard was tempting at first: Canggu was a very quiet, relaxed place, a popular spot for surfers from all over the world because of its long beach and good waves. The fact that the videos all praised the viral nightlife should perhaps have been a warning sign (at least for me). But we decided to spend the first three nights there, mainly because of its proximity to the airport.
Tattoos and Glassy Eyes
Canggu, local time 9.30 pm. At least 25 degrees, humidity almost 100 percent. We, a German-Polish couple, pushed our way along the narrow sidewalks, tired, confused, and increasingly irritated. Right next to us, an avalanche of cars and, above all, scooters roll past on the street, honking, humming, and noisy. From the countless bars and nightclubs, bass booms from man-sized loudspeakers, tattooed people sit with glassy eyes in front of their high-proof drinks. A cacophony of noise engulfs us, nearly unbearable after our 28-hour journey, with our only desire being to grab a bite and then collapse into bed. Of course, we also want to celebrate the start of our vacation with Indonesian cuisine, but that proves to be not so easy. Pizza, pasta, burgers, tacos everywhere, no local restaurants at first glance.
But then we find the very good, incredibly cheap “Ithaka.” There, on a roof terrace, you are also a little removed from the sound of the streets. If you wish, you can also have an excellent “Western-style” breakfast here. However, the evening menu is completely Indonesian, and the food is wonderfully freshly prepared. Recharged and ready, we made our way to our chic hotel, the Soul House, conveniently located just a seven-minute stroll from the beach. Luckily, it’s far enough away from the clubs and bars that are booming in Canggu almost every night of the week. The interior of our upscale hostel has two pools, one of which is right outside our window. There is a wonderful calm here, especially in the early morning, which allows you to gather strength for the exciting days ahead.
A Place Straight Out of a Fairy Tale
The swimming pool, a star on many Instagram accounts, nestles in a lush jungle garden brimming with exotic trees and vibrant plants. Cute squirrels hop around in it, birds chirp, frogs croak, and geckos make an amazing noise. Yes, for the first time, it really feels like a vacation here. And it also looks like the blueprint of Bali I had in my mind. From now on, this little oasis will serve as my haven of peace every day. But it gets even better: our hotel also has a spa where you can get a massage. One hour for just under 15 euros, no questions asked. So thoroughly kneaded and slightly groggy, I’m ready to give Canggu a second chance.
And I do well to do so because otherwise, I would have closed my heart to a very exciting, diverse place. Sometimes, the beauty of a place requires a bit of active seeking. Our first excursion takes us to nearby Seseh Beach, where “Udara Bali” is a yoga retreat straight out of a bizarre storybook. The buildings and especially the seawater pool look as if the two eccentrics Dalí and Gaudí had joined forces to create an unthinkable masterpiece. The structures sometimes look as if a child had built a castle on the beach. This is the first of many examples of how a lot of money and a lot of imagination often come together in Bali. In order to create both the wonderful and the marvelous for the tourists. This place, I must agree with my girlfriend, leans towards the latter category, exuding an air of the unreal.
Life Takes Place on the Beach
But the meditative concert we experience in a golden dome is overwhelming. Likewise, the local cuisine is fresh and fantastic, if a little more expensive than the night before. You will probably also notice this on a trip to Bali: The island is comparatively cheap everywhere for the German wallet but quite expensive compared to other Asian countries. You can spend just as much on a good meal here as you would in Berlin. But the wonderful fish and seafood, accompanied by a delicious fruit juice or shake, make you forget all that. After all, a vacation is also about spoiling and treating yourself generously.
This also includes long walks by the sea, your feet washed over again and again by the warm ocean water. The beaches in and around Canggu are brown, not like postcard-perfect powdered sugar sand, but they are all the busier for it. Countless people stroll along the natural promenade at any time of day. Bars attract customers with views of the sunset and offers such as “Happy Hour all day.” Street vendors offer their wares or delicious street food for incredibly little money. In Canggu — and this is a great asset — everything is more or less within walking distance. And for a stopover, there are always places like the “Como Beach Club,” where I ate the best tuna of the entire trip in a chic atmosphere.
Instagram Excursion Destinations
The next morning, we took a walk to another Instagram destination that my friend had dug up. The really incredibly beautiful Penny Lane garden café, where you sit under a canopy of jungle plants, caressed by the cool circulating air of countless fans. On the walls and ceilings are whimsical depictions of various movie and pop stars as saints. There is also a lavish menu with things like “Elvis Parsley” (burger) and “Game of Toblerones” (milkshake). Here, as everywhere else in Canggu, the cameras and smartphones of vacationers from all over the world are constantly clicking. Everyone simply wants to capture everything or, rather, to pose in front of this backdrop.
The feeling intensifies when we visit the ultra-hip “Sunday Market” on the grounds of the “La Brisa” beach club. Navigating between the stalls is a challenge with the constant buzz of photography and influencers broadcasting live to their followers. You can buy everything possible and impossible with a deliberately esoteric touch. Clothing, jewelry, cosmetics, incense sticks, tarot cards, supposedly performance-enhancing mushroom extracts, and organic food in all its varieties. My tip: Look for the fantastic tuna ceviche at one of the many stands and just sit back and enjoy the show. In any case, the atmosphere is great. It’s as if a colorful fair is taking place in the middle of the jungle.
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Temples and Surfers
It’s time for us to take another walk by the sea. You’ll quickly discover that strolling on foot gets you to your destination much faster than braving Canggu’s notoriously congested streets by cab or rented scooter. You might also enjoy a strong (iced) coffee in your hand, for example, from “Tugu Kawisari Coffee,” which has been around since 1870. The adjoining hotel complex also houses the “IWA,” an absolutely amazing and very good restaurant. Decorated like a Balinese temple pagoda and guarded by a giant statue from local mythology, the restaurant serves excellent Indonesian cuisine. We particularly recommend the menu for two, where you can sample various typical dishes. Not only does it taste sensational, it is also very visually appealing.
Near Canggu, you can also visit one of the most sacred places on the island, the Tanah Lot temple. It is located quite spectacularly on a rock in the sea near the coast and is only accessible at low tide. Or rather, not at all for tourists. They are only allowed to walk around the imposing complex, which is embedded in a wonderful landscape park. Across Bali, temple complexes remain off-limits to foreigners, preserving their sanctity. The place is somewhat desecrated by the sheer masses of visitors anyway. And the fact that a veritable amusement park of restaurants and shopping opportunities has been created around it.
If you want and dare, you can also start surfing in Canggu. My girlfriend made a childhood dream come true. And to my amazement, she excelled, even without any prior experience. The waves are particularly flat in the early morning. That’s when countless people of all ages are out in the water chasing the next ride. I myself gave up my ambitions after half an hour, completely exhausted. I found myself lying on the beach, gasping for breath. And then simply enjoyed the calm and relaxed atmosphere before the rest of Canggu woke up for another restless day. By the way, I extended my stay at our lovely hotel by two more nights.