September 30, 2024, 6:23 am | Read time: 3 minutes
This is a very different Mallorca: Deià, a tiny spot on the northwest coast. An artists’ village just a stone’s throw from the Mediterranean. Wildly romantic, dreamy. And a little decadent…
Dreamlike nature
This beautiful village lies on the edge of the Tramuntana mountains – as if dabbed onto a hill between Valldemossa and Port de Sóller. Even the journey here is a bit of an adventure: up and down winding mountain roads. But what nature! Colorful butterflies flutter in the warm air. Emerald-colored lizards sunbathe on ancient stone walls. Thick red poppy blossoms shine brightly. The scent of rosemary and lemon thyme fills the air.
The man who seduced everyone
Painters and writers such as Ulrich Leman, William Waldren, and Anaïs Nin (“The Delta of Venus”) came, marveled, and settled in Deià. The superstar of the artists’ colony was the English author Robert Graves (“I, Claudius, Emperor and God”)—a bon vivant with dazzling charm. Even Hollywood’s bombshell Ava Gardner fell for him – and incidentally turned the heads of the entire village of Deià. Sir Alec Guinness, Peter Ustinov, and Gabriel Garcia Marquez were all drawn to “Don Roberto,” as the Mallorcans called him. The locals loved him even when he became a little whimsical and saw UFOs landing in the village. He was buried in the small cemetery next to the church in 1985. The inconspicuous gravestone bears only one word next to his name and the dates of his life and death: “Poeta” – poet.
Michael Douglas’ confession of love
Even today, a third of the 650 or so inhabitants of Deià are foreigners like international star Michael Douglas. He is the proud owner of the Son Marroig estate with S’Estaca Castle. “Mallorca is my second home and the place where I fell in love with Catherine,” enthuses the actor. Every year, he spends several weeks at his estate with his wife, Catherine Zeta-Jones, and his children, Dylan and Carys.
The hostel of the supermodels
Michael Douglas hikes a lot in the stunning natural surroundings of Deià. Sometimes, he splashes around with his family in the luxury hotel La Residencia pool. Lemon groves surround the 16th-century manor house. One of the previous owners was Richard Branson, multimillionaire adventurer and founder of Virgin Airlines. Today, the hotel belongs to the upscale Belmond Group. The art gallery and sculpture garden are well worth a visit. The works are all by artists who have worked in Deià. Supermodels Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell are also fans of La Residencia.
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Paella on the terrace
The village itself is understated. The old houses are discreetly home to high-end boutiques, galleries, and chic restaurants. The prices are high. But you can also feast more cheaply in Deià, for example, at Las Palmeras in the middle of the village. Paella (€11.95) and grilled sea bass (€14.95) are delicious on the pretty terrace. Nice place to stay: Pension Miramar. In this 19th-century farmhouse, which is situated slightly higher up, you can enjoy a great view of Deià and the Mediterranean.
The locals like to go swimming in the beautiful Cala de Deià bay. From the village at 222 meters above sea level, a winding road leads three kilometers down to the rocky beach. The water is turquoise green and crystal clear.