October 10, 2024, 6:34 am | Read time: 15 minutes

Claudia Prommegger has already hiked several Camino de Santiago trails through Spain. She is particularly fond of the lonely ones, away from the crowds. She documented her last pilgrimage on the Camino de Levante and the Camino Sanabrés for TRAVELBOOK.

The infrastructure along the Camino de Levante leaves much to be desired

Some stretches can be quite challenging, spanning up to 30 kilometers without the sight of a bar, fountain, or supermarket. Along the way, you won’t find benches for a restful pause, nor will you encounter shade to escape the fierce sun or a refuge to dodge an unexpected downpour. You walk for miles through plantations, fields, forests and cow pastures.

Compared to the most famous Way of St. James, the Camino Francés, the infrastructure is poor to nonexistent. There are hostels, but not everywhere. In addition, you usually have to collect the key for the hostel from the police or the village bar. It is helpful to be able to speak Spanish and to call in advance because, of course, the police go on their daily missions and are sometimes not to be found at the police station for hours.

Day 1: Let’s get started!

I start my pilgrimage on the Camino de Levante in Valencia in mid-March. In the cathedral, I get the first stamp for my pilgrim’s identity card, which is needed as proof for the pilgrim’s certificate in Santiago de Compostela. Afterward, I am also being blessed. Nothing can go wrong now, vamos!

Walking is only part of the journey; becoming accustomed to shouldering a backpack for hours on end is another. As I take photos and work on the go, I have a laptop with me as well as my photographic equipment. In total, my backpack probably weighs at least 12 kilograms. While not the norm for a pilgrim, this setup allows me to traverse Spain’s landscapes at my own leisurely pace.

Unfortunately, at 26 degrees, it is actually far too warm for hiking. Fortunately, there are shady paths from time to time, but then I come to a section where no tree or house casts a shadow. It’s terribly hot, and I’m glad that I always set off with 1.5 liters of water.

The first stage to Silla is only 15 kilometers because Almussafes, the next village, only has one accommodation and no one has reported back there. So it’s better not to take any risks on the first day and go for a shorter stage than walk too many kilometers. In the evening at the hostel, I feel the first pain in my back. I’m no longer used to carrying the heavy rucksack. But otherwise, I’m fine, and I’m already looking forward to day 2!

Day 2: A whole hostel to myself

I had already planned the second stage the evening before, I’m going to split it into two days because it’s just too hot! From tomorrow, it will be a bit uphill, but the Camino goes around most of the mountains. That’s why I’m currently going in the wrong direction, i.e. south, until I’ve circumnavigated the mountains and then to the northwest.

After a strenuous 24 kilometers, I arrive at my destination of Algemesí in the afternoon. It was very hot again, but this time I can spend the night in a pilgrims’ hostel. The first impression is very good: in the house, which is very centrally located next to the church, there is a kitchen, two bathrooms, a lounge with a large table, and a dormitory with lots of bunk beds and a desk. The only thing missing is other pilgrims.

Day 3: I am not alone after all

On the morning of the third day, as I do every day, I first go to a bar and order breakfast. Strengthened, I continue on to the church, because there must be the next signpost somewhere! I stand in front of the church a little haphazardly and see that a stage has been set up for celebrations. But where is the yellow arrow? Or the shell?

While I search the ground and the facades for Camino symbols, a man asks me if I’m going on a pilgrimage to Santiago. I take the opportunity to chat briefly with him and ask the question of questions: Where is the Camino de Santiago here? He tells me to follow him, and together we circle the church and walk along the road for a while. We come to a crossroads, and lo and behold, under the palm tree on the curb, the yellow arrow is shining towards me. At last, we can set off! I thank the man for his help, say goodbye and leave Algemesí.

On the way, I pass through several villages that are already preparing for the Valencian spring festival “Las Fallas”, which is celebrated every year on St. Joseph’s Day in March. Many people from the village are there while I photograph the colorful figures. In Spain, there are big celebrations for every occasion.

When I arrive in La Pobla Llarga, I head straight for the police station because that’s where I can get the key to the hostel. But there is no one there. I dial the number of the Policía Local and find out that they are currently “en servicio”, i.e., away on duty. I have to wait for almost an hour until the chief of police and his colleague arrive by car. Shortly afterward, another pilgrim arrives at the police station! She is French, and her name is Corinne.

The two policemen drive Corinne and me to the hostel in the police car, show us around and give us the keys. When we ask how much the overnight stay costs, they just say “it’s free” in Spanish. In the hostel, however, I see that there is a donation box, where I put in 10 euros.

Day 4: It’s getting hotter and hotter, even though it’s only mid-March

At 32 degrees, the hottest day is just around the corner. I therefore decide to have breakfast early in the morning so that I can get going soon. There are no tostadas in the first bar. The second bar opens a little later. I finally get my tostadas with olive oil and tomato at half past eight. In the meantime, I booked a room in Xàtiva for today, as the small town has no hostel and is big enough that there are bound to be lots of people there for the “Las Fallas” festivities on the weekend.

I arrive at the first bar in Xàtiva at noon sharp before the heat sets in and order an ice-cold beer to quench my thirst – delicious! Afterward, I head to my accommodation as well as explore the town for a little while.

Day 7: Settling in after a week is done!

After a week, I’ve crossed the Valencia/Castilla-La Mancha border. My first impression: it’s quite windy here, but that’s typical of Castilla-La Mancha. There are historic windmills here, including those famous ones from “Don Quixote”.

My hiking trousers now look like I’ve been walking through the desert. But I don’t wash them yet. I’m waiting until there’s a washing machine available in one of the accommodations. So far, all the washing machines have been broken or not available at all.

The first week is always exhausting, the backpack is heavy, and my legs are lame. But today I’m going at a good pace. It’s only mid-morning, and I’ve already covered eight kilometers. However, I still have a few more to go, and the sun is beating down mercilessly.

Day 10: Are there no other pilgrims here?

Today’s hike through Castilla-La Mancha was really beautiful. The most beautiful thing was the wide fields and nature. I felt like I was really far away from civilization. It was noticeable that there were more insects, spiders and beetles here than usual, but still frighteningly few.

I hadn’t met a pilgrim for days, and there was no sign of the two other pilgrims I had met so far. On the way, I pass a sign saying that there are still 1,000 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela. Hooray! So from now on, only three digits!

Shortly afterward, I meet an old man who must live nearby and is walking here. He asks me if I’m walking alone and if I’m not scared because there are so many dangerous people walking around here. I tell him that I actually wanted to hike with a friend, but that she couldn’t come with me at short notice for health reasons. That makes sense to him, but he thinks it’s far too dangerous that I’m still hiking alone. I can’t quite understand that. Everyone I’ve met so far has always been nice, helpful and safe.

Day 12: The heat is over

After twelve days, a week-long rainy phase begins. Of course, I don’t know this at the time and hope that this is the first and only day I get wet. Rain makes everything more complicated on the road. The ground turns into clay that sticks to my shoes. However, I now also discover tracks in the softened earth and know that other pilgrims have passed through here, even though I haven’t met anyone.

Day 14: Sleepless in Minaya

The wind is blowing directly in my face at 40 kilometers per hour, and of course there’s also a large portion of rain. It’s very tiring to walk, so today’s 18 kilometers are really enough for me.

The hostel in Minaya is just a storage room in a gym. Jesús, who is in charge of the hostel, shows me everything. He explains to me how I have to preheat the water for the shower and that there are children training in the hall today – so no rest. The shower is also more of an experiment. The water splashes in every direction, but not where you would expect it.

It’s still stormy at night, the doors squeak, and sleep is out of the question. And then the rain comes in, directly over my bed! Fortunately, there is still a pile of gym mattresses, so that will be my sleeping place for the rest of the night.

In the morning, I check how much water has collected in the bucket that I found during the night and placed on the mattress in bed. It’s just under a centimeter. Then I pack my backpack and leave Jesús a donation on the table. He could really do with that for the hostel! I then hide the key in the agreed-upon place and set off as quickly as possible to get out of Minaya.

Day 16: Out of the frying pan into the fire

I can already see the church tower in the village of Las Pedroñeras. After six kilometers, I will finally be there. Then the heavens open, and a heavy downpour hits me. Within a few minutes, I’m completely soaked, despite my rain jacket and rain trousers. I look for somewhere to shelter, but there’s nothing here. Even my feet are wet now. By now I can’t even see the church tower because of all the rain, but luckily my legs and poles know what to do by themselves.

After a good hour, I finally reach the village. I enter the busy bar, and, like in a movie, it suddenly goes quiet as I stand in the doorway, dripping wet. There is only one small free space at the bar, where I put my backpack down and slowly peel myself out of my rain jacket. I ask a boy if the chair next to him is free. But it is occupied. A man offers me a bar stool, and the boy carries it to my rucksack at the bar faster than I can look. I must have presented quite a pitiful sight.

I ask the woman next to me if she knows the best place to get in touch with someone about a hostel. She says she knows someone at the town hall and looks for a number on her phone. The barman overheard our conversation and hands me a business card. I thank him and call the priests’ convent. Jesús – a very popular name, it seems – asks when I’ll be arriving, and I tell him I could be there in five minutes. I hurry, finish my drink quickly, pay and meet Jesús at the convent. The accommodation boasts numerous rooms, a kitchen stocked with a full fridge, and, to my delight, even a washing machine this time! Perfect, and now finally out of the wet clothes and off to the radiant heater!

Day 19: The last stages of the Camino de Levante

Finally, I see two beautiful white windmills in the distance. On the 800 kilometers of the Camino de Levante, I spent the night in the most bizarre places: in a bullfighting arena, in a converted changing room, on a sports field, in a castle, in a music school, in the town hall, in a classroom, to name but a few. I was spontaneously invited to an afternoon of crocheting with coffee and cake. I met an incredible number of nice people, and we exchanged stories and phone numbers. The Camino is all that. But of course, it’s also effort, wet shoes, and sleepless nights that make me wonder what I’m actually doing out here alone. I have completed an unforgettable adventure. I played the leading role in my play “Camino de Levante” and the first act is coming to an end in Zamora.

Day 38: A new section begins: Camino Sanabrés

Everything changes from Zamora onward! The peace and solitude of the Camino de Levante are over, because here the Camino de Levante meets the Via de la Plata and continues along the Camino Sanabrés. After five weeks, this is a welcome change for me.

I meet lots of new pilgrims on the very first day. Most of them already know each other, as they almost all come from the Via de la Plata, i.e., from Seville. As all the faces are new to me, it’s an exciting day. From now on, I can choose whether I want to hike alone, in pairs or in small groups. Of course, the hostels are also bigger and fuller. This means that my quiet, peaceful nights are finally over. There are stage destinations that many people head for, and then there are places in between where hardly anyone stays.

Day 52: Typical Galicia, it rains from time to time and not a little

The climate in Galicia is characterized by the Atlantic Ocean, which means it is often raining and a lot! Winters are mild with heavy rainfall, and the summer months are not too hot. It feels like a winter’s day today, as it remains cloudy all day, and pours down with rain.

Some sections of the Camino Sanabrés are flooded, and the soles of my shoes are already leaking after over 1000 kilometers. 15 kilometers later, I’m sitting in a bar with completely wet hiking boots, hoping that the rain will stop. As I continue, the worst moment is to slip back into my wet clothes and complete the remaining 15 kilometers.

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Day 54: The last day of the pilgrimage

On the last day, there is a truly mystical, magical morning. The sun breaks through the fog and transforms the forest into an incredible world. It’s almost as if nature is trying to make up for the last few days of heavy rain.

The landscape is beautiful and varied, but the last stage is a long 34 kilometers. The people I meet on the road already know that I’m close to the finish. They call out to me how many kilometers I still have to go. Of course, I know this myself, but a little motivation doesn’t hurt. The closer I get to Santiago de Compostela, the faster my steps become. Once I see the towers of the cathedral from afar, I pause briefly as I begin to realize that my months-long hike will be over in one fell swoop. Nevertheless, I’m pleased to have done everything well after 54 days!

The city of Santiago de Compostela is full of people in walking outfits and with backpacks. No matter where you go, you see pilgrims everywhere. It feels great. After the obligatory photos in front of the cathedral and the big reunion with other pilgrims, it’s off to the pilgrims’ office to pick up the Compostela and the certificate.

If you wish, you have now reached the end of your pilgrimage. For me, it only ends in Finisterre, because the “end of the world” is simply part of it. As I have done this last hike several times before, I decide to take the bus to Muxía. I spend the night there and hike the very last stage from Muxía to Finisterre (30 kilometers).

Also interesting: And what type of a hiker are you?

The whole hike, with more than 700 photos and 50 maps of the individual daily stages as well as some anecdotes, can be found in my book “Camino de Levante and Camino Sanabrés”.