September 2, 2024, 4:01 pm | Read time: 6 minutes

Olive groves, hidden gorges, panoramic views, and the most beautiful mountain villages on the island: a charming long-distance hiking trail leads through Mallorca’s wild Tramuntana mountains away from mass tourism.

Shortly after the marina, the path disappears into hilly pine forests. The view is magnificent, overlooking the former fishing village of Sant Elm and the “dragon island” of Sa Dragonera in front of it. The route then climbs steeply again through pine forests. The views invite you to take a breather again and again.

The art of dry stone walling

The view from the abandoned Trappist monastery of La Trapa is impressive. The almost 80-hectare monastery complex, which was built by French Trappist monks in 1810, has been a listed building since 2022 and is gradually being restored using private funds and donations.

No mortar or cement is used at all in the dry stone structures, such as the buildings and terraces of the monastery. Only angular stones of different sizes are joined together. On the hiking trail, you can still marvel at countless boundary walls, terraces, houses, defense towers, and sections of paths built using this technique. This is why the GR 221 is also known as the Ruta de Pedra en Sec.

Wild coastal views on Mallorca’s GR 221 hiking trail

For the rest of the day, the panoramic views of the rugged west coast of Mallorca are a delight. At the Mirador d’en Josep Sastre viewpoint, the cliff plunges dramatically 450 meters into the sea.

You will reach the Finca Ses Fontanelles in the evening. The 200-year-old farmhouse has been transformed into an idyllic hiking hotel. Sheep graze under citrus trees. Peace returns.

From Ses Fontanelles, the trail climbs steeply for 200 meters through a secluded gorge. Wild goats seem surprised by the human presence. The higher you climb, the more beautiful the view over the wild coast and the Mediterranean becomes.

The next stage destination, Banyalbufar, with its stone terraces, steep alleyways, and ochre-colored sandstone houses, is one of the most beautiful villages in the Tramuntana. Banyalbufar means “built by the sea”. The name comes from the Arab occupiers who built terraces here centuries ago to cultivate Malvasia wine.

Villages straight out of a picture book

The next day, the path winds its way through dark holm oak forests again. After Esporles, the path leads up to the mountain ridge at an altitude of almost 600 meters. Soon, you can see your destination in the valley: Valldemossa, the most visited village on the island, for good reason. For many, however, the most beautiful village is Deià. And the almost 13-kilometer stage to get there is one of the most beautiful on the GR 221, initially following a historic bridle path.

It slowly climbs up to the 938-metre-high Puig Gros. The descent to Deià is beautiful. The path leads dramatically along steep cliffs until olive grove terraces slowly flatten the terrain. Deià is Mallorca’s artists’ village. It has always attracted painters, poets, and composers. Quite a few of them stayed at the “La Residencia” hotel. The hotel is worth a visit just for its sculpture garden and around 800 works, mainly by local artists.

Past olive and citrus plantations

The day’s walk to the port of Port de Sóller takes you through endless olive tree plantations. In the gnarled, centuries-old trees on the Muleta peninsula, you can see goblins, faces, and all kinds of animals. At the Cap Gros lighthouse, built in 1842, the path turns abruptly to the right and leads to the beautiful natural harbor of Sóller. And with it, the longed-for plunge into the Mediterranean.

The following day begins relaxed and nostalgic: the wood-paneled streetcar, inaugurated in 1913, takes you from the beach promenade through citrus groves to Sóller. The market hall is an excellent place to buy provisions for the long day’s stage at the Tossals Verds refuge.

Mallorca can also be lonely

Shortly after the mountain village of Biniaraix, fitness is required. The route zigzags steeply uphill through a secluded gorge on dry stone paths. Almost 750 meters in altitude must be climbed to the Coll de L’Ofre. The view back into the orange valley of Sóller is stunning.

Two reservoirs glisten in the sun at the top of the high valley. It smells of sage and herbs. Mallorca’s highest mountain, the 1436-metre-high Puig Major, towers imposingly over the landscape. At the Tossals Verds mountain hut, you are far away from civilization.

The monastery of Lluc down in the valley basin can be seen from afar. The most important place of pilgrimage in Mallorca was founded in the 13th century. You can spend the night in the former monks’ cells. As soon as the day tourists disappear, it becomes wonderfully quiet. You set off early in the morning.

Idyllic tranquillity and bricklaying

The birdsong is soothing. The forest path leads slowly down from the Tramuntana mountains into the bay of Pollença. Oranges, figs, almonds, pears, and apricots characterize the valley. Cross an old Roman bridge to reach the town center with its magnificent mansions, palaces, and parish church.

The last stage along the road is not necessary. The bus will also do here if the desire to jump into the sea becomes too great. Incidentally, the dry stone wall trail will be extended in the coming years and will end at the mystical Cape of Formentor.

More on the topic

For spontaneous travelers 12 of the most beautiful destinations for an October vacation

Where Michael Douglas feels at home Deià – the most beautiful village in Mallorca

0

For multi-day tours The best tips and routes for hiking in the Harz Mountains

More information about the GR 221 Mallorca hiking trail

The GR 221 hiking trail on the west coast of Mallorca is accessible all year round. Spring and fall are best due to the mild temperatures.

You should plan between nine and twelve days for the trips along the 150-kilometre long-distance hiking trail.

With material from dpa