September 2, 2024, 3:44 pm | Read time: 5 minutes
TRAVELBOOK author Anna Wengel (now Chiodo) recently began a trip through Scotland with a visit to its capital, Edinburgh – and fell head over heels in love with the city, which she experienced as a historical architectural vintage heaven in a musical guise. Here is her travelogue.
Traveling to Edinburgh in August? Brace yourself for a hustle and bustle that’s quite uncharacteristic of the Scottish capital. Admittedly, this was all hearsay to me until just a few days ago. Previously, my feet had never touched Scottish soil, let alone its capital. But after hearing this tale time and again, I’m inclined to pass it along to you in good faith.
Edinburgh under the sign of the Fringe
The reason for the current crowds is the many performances by numerous people. Some performers lie motionless on the street, draped in red-sprinkled scarves, while others, clad in blue hospital garb, shout to the crowd and distribute flyers. They stand on various street corners and display such a variety of goosebumps-inducing voices that I feel compelled to say that Edinburgh seems to be a capital of several unrecognized vocal talents. Or balancing giant sticks on their torsos, for God knows what reason, while encouraging the surrounding crowd to clap and laugh.
They are all part of the “Fringe” festival, which comes to Scotland’s capital every August and transforms its center into a smorgasbord of stages of all kinds. The Fringe firmly embraces the city center, ensuring that your strolls past tourist attractions are always accompanied by an eclectic soundtrack. Drums, bagpipes, Ed Sheeran songs — you name it.
Crowds in August
The crowds are particularly visible in Edinburgh’s city center. And so I have to laugh a little when I find myself surrounded by obvious “Harry Potter” fans in a queue. Just to take a look at the “real” grave of Tom or Thomas Riddle.
Unsurprisingly, it is even more crowded on and around the popular street center, The Royal Mile. Through this one, I can only let myself be pushed along in a cuddle with hordes of tourists. The famous Scott Monument is only ever visible because it is so immense. However, its pedestal is almost completely obscured by people posing, taking photos or otherwise standing around.
And even in Dean Village, which is a little further away, it feels like the visitors are piling up. The reason for this is very obvious, as there are a number of pompous influencers standing around and in the way, hardly fitting the romantic image. Edinburgh is obviously on the list at the moment. And so this seemingly self-centered crowd stands around in a number of places in picturesque Edinburgh. Sometimes even in the middle of the street, having their picture taken.
Edinburgh is a vintage paradise
Yet, none of these distractions detract from the city’s charm. I find myself wandering through this enchanting city, viewing everything through rose-tinted glasses, utterly smitten with its captivating cityscape. Away from the various streams of people, I find lots of places and events that I didn’t know about before. I am more than happy about discovering these.
For example, the fact that Edinburgh is a vintage shopping paradise. On the pretty Grassmarket alone, which isn’t exactly far removed from the tourist attractions, I have to restrain myself twice, finding what I’m looking for several times in the chic Torn Vintage boutique as well as in the bustling Armstrongs Vintage. Edinburgh’s hip vibe took me by surprise, far exceeding my expectations. In addition to the various characters on the streets, who can easily keep up with Berlin’s hipster and party crowd, it’s the pretty Anglo buildings made of dark stone with colorful doors, pubs, stores, and the like that I find particularly inspiring. As a connoisseur of quaint cafés and “specialty coffee,” I’m repeatedly drawn to these cozy nooks. Each visit leaves me feeling content. One of them is Braw Brunch, which I highly recommend.
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City and beach life in one
Another find I wasn’t really prepared for was the coast. Having longed for years for a metropolis with sea access, the fact that Edinburgh is by the sea and that I can combine city life with beach life excited me already when I was looking for accommodation.
Our delightful Airbnb, nestled in the home of a charming Scottish family, was conveniently located just a stone’s throw from the beach in the Portobello district. It’s a tranquil haven compared to the city’s bustling center. Yet, it boasts a scenic beach promenade, an array of restaurants, and more. And it is anything but busy. When the weather is sunny, a lot of people come here on the weekend, but it still remains relaxed. In August in particular, it forms a wonderful contrast to the hustle and bustle of the Fringe in the city center.