September 3, 2024, 6:45 am | Read time: 5 minutes
A horseback ride through the jungle of Samaná or a trip to the island of Saona, famous from the Bounty commercials: day trips like these are a great escape from the Ballermann-like party strongholds of the Dominican Republic.
“Look how well I steer!” shouts seven-year-old Lennart. His tour guide, a Caribbean boy with black curly hair, gives him the reins and the feeling that he has everything under control.
Lennart’s older siblings even sit alone in the saddle. Their guide follows at a distance. The horses know the rocky path through the jungle so well that they can find it on their own. When in doubt, a gentle cluck is enough – and the animal takes a different turn. This is quite an adventure for the holidaymakers, who were still in a secluded resort in Punta Cana, the tourist center of the Dominican Republic.
Lennart’s guide feels his way into the forest with him, showing him banana trees and bamboo. Lianas dangle down onto the path, climbing plants entwining trunks and branches. Man-high ferns spread out their fan-like leaves; shrubs sway their bushy heads. The canopy of leaves is almost closed, and the sun’s rays barely reach the ground. Twilight prevails. And it is quiet. “Where are the animals?” asks Lennart. Not the tip of a tail! Not even a bird. His guide puts his head in his hands and closes his eyes to explain: “They sleep during the day.”
It’s a ride through a stuffy laundry room, and a film of sweat lies on the skin. Earlier, it rained – a very brief shower, after which you were soaking wet. The rainforest was steaming. But after a few minutes, everything was dry again, even the thick jeans Lennart’s mother wore for safety, “against the mosquitoes,” as she says.
Now it’s time to dismount, and then it’s down the slippery steps built into a mountainside in single file. Behind the green wall of trees, you can hear the sound of rushing water. Suddenly, the path opens up, and a fine spray wafts at the hikers: It comes from “Salto el Limón,” the Lemon Waterfall, which cascades down from a great height.
Swimmers cavort in the small lake in front of it. However, Dad doesn’t allow Lennart and his siblings to swim: He claims to have heard that parasites in such waters nest in body cavities and breed worms there. At least there is time to admire Lennart’s guide’s jumping skills: He plunges into the lake from a rock with his arms outstretched.
Day trips like these spare package holidaymakers in the Dominican Republic from a stay in the ghetto. Even on these organized tours, travelers come into at least fleeting contact with the locals. Poverty is evident, but tourists do not get the feeling that their prosperity attracts envious glances. The locals seem proud that people come from far and wide to see their country.
By nightfall, everyone is safely back at the beach resort – just when the jungle is coming to life. Some resorts have a piece of rainforest on the grounds. It is fenced off, but it is enough to experience the concert of the jungle on the way to the restaurant in the evening: It whistles, chirps, croaks, and buzzes. How deafening it must be on Samaná now!
The state owns the Dominican Republic beaches, which cannot be closed off. So you can wander endlessly through the powdery sand. The late afternoon sun bathes everything in the famous bronze Caribbean light. There is a hint of wild nature when pelicans glide past. With their protruding beaks, they look strangely prehistoric. “Pterosaurs,” says Lennart.
Another classic excursion is the island of Saona, also known as Bounty Island because the commercial for the chocolate bar was filmed there. A speedboat takes you across the sea. Everyone can get out on a sandbank to snorkel. The starfish here are huge and easy to pick up from the seabed. It’s a point of honor to put them back. Then comes the last stretch to the island.
Here, reality exceeds all expectations. It is the ultimate dream island with white powder sand, palm trees, and turquoise blue water. What’s more, the beach is deserted. Over a hundred sun loungers lie unused here. This is not to say that the children aren’t fighting: All three siblings want to be on the same one. And it doesn’t take half an hour before Lennart’s older brother complains: “Mom, there’s no wifi here!” Another hour later, Lennart asks: “When are we going back?”
